Example Build

Raw Lumber Sources

Pictured above is a typical vintage barn in the Ozark area. This barn was dismantled, denailed, trimmed, and sorted by specialists. My supplier is the best in the business. The lumber he provides from barns like this is the highest-quality reclaimed barn wood available in the Ozarks.

Almost all barns in my area were built with oak—mostly red oak, white oak, and post oak. Occasionally, some cherry, black walnut, or other lumber was used.

Kiln Treatment

Vintage barn lumber must be treated before use, as it may contain termites, powderpost beetles, or carpenter ants. Raising the temperature of the lumber to 165 degrees will kill any active or dormant insects, and will destroy insect eggs. The first step in building any piece of Ozarks Reclaimed furniture is heat-treating the lumber in my onsite kiln.

Cutting and Milling

Following kiln treatment, the lumber is allowed to cool. I then cut each piece to rough length, and mill it to size. If the piece will be visible I carefully sand the surfaces. Preserving the original sawmill marks makes this a painstaking process, as the trick is to make the piece smooth, yet leave as many of the original marks as possible.

Building the Frame

Following a detailed scale drawing, I cut each frame part to the exact length and cross-section needed. Legs and cross pieces forming the main outline of the frame are joined with heavy-duty pocket screw fasteners. I add additional frame pieces—door uprights, shelf supports, etc.—in the same manner. At this time I also add interior shelves and panels, which are usually made of high-quality red oak plywood.

The completed frame is solid, strong, and quite heavy. This example is about one hundred pounds.

Making the Top

The tops I make for vanities and other pieces are thick, heavy, and amazing to see. I make them out of reclaimed oak 2x8s, 2x6s, and 2x4s. I mill and sand them carefully to preserve as much of the original sawmill marks and other signs of wear and age as possible. I glue the individual boards together in a special clamping jig to make a strong, solid slab. For vanities and counter tops that will be exposed to liquids, I fill all nail holes before applying the waterproof varnish.

Panels, Shelves, and Doors

For external panels, shelves, and doors, I start with 1x6 and irregular-sized barn wood planks. Most are 3/4” to 1” thick, or a bit thicker. In the barn, these boards were used for siding and flooring, so they have plenty of nail holes, gouges, and other marks. After milling them true and square, I cut them to size and sand them smooth.

Final Assembly and Finishing

After adding shelves, doors, drawers, and panels to the piece, I go over all surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper. After sanding, varnished pieces receive a minimum of three coats of top-quality waterproof oil-based varnish. Tops that will be exposed to casual water receive a fourth coat of varnish.

For whitewashed pieces, I apply the whitewash using a French pad technique. This leaves a light coat of whitewash through which the wood grain, sawmill marks, and nail holes are still visible. I usually leave the surface matte, although I can also apply a coat of varnish to add a bit of warmth and sheen.

In my opinion, nothing matches the beauty and character of furniture carefully made from reclaimed barn wood.